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I have 123 volts on one phase and 89 or less on the other phase depending what I turn on. How do I troubleshoot this?

isherwood
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Gerald Bates
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    Does the voltage on the 123-volt leg/phase go up further when you turn stuff on/off? – ThreePhaseEel Feb 02 '20 at 23:37
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    Great question 3ph. Because one leg is close to nominal and the other hot varies based on load, I vote for a weak hot connection, dangerous, but not as bad as a open neutral. A building on our church property had a similar problem, "half" the house would fail at times. Turned out to be a badly corroded hot lead. Harper is also right, minimize load to absolute minimum and monitor carefully. Monitor voltage on the bad leg, any load that changes it must be turned off. This is a dangerous situation. One caveat, if the "good" leg changes voltage a lot based on load, probably open neutral. – George Anderson Feb 03 '20 at 03:33
  • OP when you have a final resolution please tell us what it is. – A. I. Breveleri Feb 05 '20 at 00:03

2 Answers2

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RED ALERT! Call the power company TONIGHT and report an outage

You have, at the very least, a lost phase. And quite probably a lost neutral.

Now, in most of Europe, this would mean a 100% outage, since their power drops only have 2 wires. America uses 3, which we get a lot of weird effects when 1 wire breaks.

The weirdest effect is a lost neutral, where both hot legs are still hot, but the 120V voltage wanders all over the place high and low - the two legs adding up to ~240V, but one higher and one lower.

The lost neutral is an immediate and imminent threat to your safety. 95% of the time, the problem is on the service drop between your meter and the pole/transformer, since that's the one flapping around in the breeze and accumulating metal fatigue. That's why to call the power company straightaway. The last time this happened to me, the PoCo was out in an hour, on a Sunday, after saying they'd be delayed due to another emergency. Fixed not only our complex, but a weak hot wire on our neighbor, too.

The other possibility is a lost hot, which I discuss at length here. In that case, the other hot will appear to work, but be weird and weak. What's happening is a 240V appliance (like the water heater) has cycled on, and is effectively shorting the two poles through its high resistance heating element. So your 120V appliances are now in series with the water heater, all trying to share 120V. That may work well enough for the water heater to reach its high setpoint and cycle off, and that leg will go dead again Don't do that, though.

Meanwhile, shut off the main breaker!

You may shut off all breakers and turn the main back on, and then do one of the following:

  • turn on ONE 120V load only (no breakers with double width or tied handles) e.g. Furnace or fridge. It may not work.
  • If you know panel topology reasonably well (the weird way that poles are striped across the breakers), you can turn on 120V loads on one pole OR the other, never both... but all 240s must be off.
Harper - Reinstate Monica
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  • In addition to calling the power company, IF YOU KNOW WHERE YOUR SERVICE PANEL IS, TURN OFF ALL POWER TO THE HOUSE NOW. If you don't want to do that, at least unplug or switch off all the lights and appliances you can. – A. I. Breveleri Feb 03 '20 at 00:50
  • @A.I.Breveleri Good point.. I embellished that a bit because for those in the snowbelt, going fully dark is a non-option. – Harper - Reinstate Monica Feb 03 '20 at 01:04
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    Well we hope the power company has been to OP's house by now and all is safe. BUT... When I first read your embellishment I agreed -- carefully try to get at least the furnace or some space heaters working. Now that I've had half a day to think about it, I've concluded that it's just too dangerous. Suppose he has completely lost his neutral connection between the power company and the service panel. His neutral is still bonded to ground, inside the panel. If he powers up one 120v appliance, it won't work -- but it will energize all his fault grounds. His appliances become lethal to touch. – A. I. Breveleri Feb 03 '20 at 13:25
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There are two most common causes of what you are seeing.

The first is when there is a poor connection on L1 or L2, which are the two hot lines from your transformer supplying power to the house. This will typically manifest with voltage drop on one leg (line) and stable voltage on the other. This situation is not safe for your appliances (refrigerators do not do well with low voltage, as an example). It is also not safe for where the voltage drop is happening, which is usually a poor connection or a failing transformer winding. Fires can happen.

Another less common source of this problem is where aluminum wires feed the panel box in a residence, and the connection has loosened over time. It will get hot, and the expansion and contraction will worsen the condition. Sometimes this can be detected by measuring the voltage at the conductor coming into the panel box and on the bus bar in the panel box to see if there is a differential.

The second situation which could cause what you are seeing is a floating neutral. This doesn't happen as often, but is a very dangerous situation. It can result in electrocutions, with some appliances like older stoves, where the neutral also functions as a ground. In the case of an electric range/stove the problem is compounded by the appliance being in a room which customarily has wet hands, and a sink nearby with an earth ground.

If you are not comfortable pulling panel covers and measuring 240 volts, get someone who is. Within a few minutes they should be able to determine what is happening.

Power companies vary in how much they are willing to debug customer power problems, but you might get faster response calling the power company. They can at least verify that they are feeding you good power.

mongo
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